What’s Cooking? Barbecue, Fried Chicken and a Little bit of Southern Eats.
Once again Houston is going through a rash of restaurant openings. Eateries of all kinds are springing up faster than the rising heat and humidity of summertime. And the pickings are many and varied. Want a burger at a genuine honky tonk? Check. How about some modern French fare, plenty of pasta, plus pho, sushi, vegetarian options and more. Here are three – one barbecue with a side of controversy, one famous fried chicken and one that, well, is hard to define. But they’re all worth checking out.
INTERNATIONAL SMOKE
800 Sorella Ct, Ste 940
michaelmina.net
Probably the most controversial restaurant to open here, International Smoke is based on the San Francisco concept by chef Michael Mina and cookbook author Ayesha Curry. And there lies the rub … pun intended. Curry is the wife of Golden State Warriors point guard Stephen Curry. Rockets fans went wild on Yelp with negative reviews about the California barbecue restaurant before it even opened. Warrior fans fought back. The story made national news.
But if you’re not a die-hard Rockets fan, and even if you are, you might give this spot, in CityCentre next door to Hotel Sorella, a shot.
The duo behind this 6,000-square-foot restaurant and bar with two tempting terraces, describes the menu as a nod to their travels with a mix of flavors from varying grilling techniques and spice from around the world. But the restaurant does plan to source a lot of meat from local ranches and produce from nearby farms.
International Smoke is set to open for happy hour and dinner July 5 with a lunch rollout later in the summer. At press time there was no phone number listed so check the Web site for one if you want to make reservations.
GUS’S WORLD FAMOUS (Hot & Spicy) FRIED CHICKEN
1815 Washington Ave.
832.740.4022
gusfriedchicken.com/houston-texas-location/
Over in The Heights, a longtime hot bed of new and exciting eateries, it’s fried chicken on the table. And not just any fried chicken but Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken from Memphis, Tenn. The 4,00-square-foot red brick building sits across the street from B & B Butchers and as of May, is open for lunch and dinner daily.
And yes, Houston has plenty of homegrown fried chicken dishes on menus around town that are excellent, but this hot and spicy bird is definitely worthy of a try. They don’t call the chain world famous for nothing.
First off, the birds are always fresh, not frozen, they are spiced and batter and fried in peanut oil. (By the way, the Peanut Institute says peanut oil is so refined that it is allergen free but as always, if you have a nut allergy and have symptoms while eating, stop eating and treat the issues.) The heat level is good, more than momma’s home fried chicken but less than the famous Nashville hot chicken. And the coating is just crunchy enough while the inside stays juicy.
Sides include fried pickles with Ranch dressing (a Southern classic), seasoned French fries, white bread, baked beans and good ol’ cole slaw. Wash it all down with a soda or beer but save room for the traditional sweet and creamy chess pie.
POITIN
2313 Edwards Street
713.470.6686
poitinhouston.com
Also in the same neck of the woods, this time in the Sawyer Yards developement, is Poitin. It’s pronounced puut-cheen and it’s the name of a homemade Irish brew. So is the food Irish? Not so much as it’s a mish mash of world cuisines with locally sourced ingredients.
The huge complex, 9,600 square feet, is the brainchild of restaurateur Ian Tucker and chef Dominick Lee, a former sous chef at Kiran’s. The concept is similar, yet different, than award-winning chef Chris Shepherd’s original Underbelly: it’s a celebration of the city’s diverse cultures.
Currently open for dinner and weekend brunch, the evenings offer such fare as traditional Mexican elote (corn) with queso fresco and Harrison Farm’s bacon, Texas Wagyu and a slow-braised lamb neck seasoned with harissa. Brunch menu has interesting items like a duck leg hash and sunny side up eggs, buttermilk blueberry pancakes and a salmon tartine.
The bar serves 125 wines and craft cocktails and if you have a sweet tooth try the “24 karrot” cake drizzled in honey yogurt. It’s a beautiful space with great service and unique bites.
twitter: @marenegustin