Frank’s Americana Revival
A Shine-ing Neighborhood Eatery
by Marene Gustin
Not only is Frank’s Americana Revival a family-friendly restaurant nestled in the heart of River Oaks, it’s also a family institution. Longtime restaurateur Michael Shine, 64, was a successful national consultant when he decided to hang up his travelling shoes and bought Frank’s Chop House from Frank Crapitto in 2012.
“I missed having my own restaurant,” Shine says. “And I wanted something for my son’s future.” That son was Chris Shine, 43, who partnered with his dad on transforming the spot into Frank’s Americana Revival, a charming, comfortable restaurant well-known for its top-of-the-line comfort food. Think chicken fried steaks the size of a large plate, buttermilk fried chicken, and shrimp and white cheddar grits.
Like all of Shine’s sons, Chris grew up working in kitchens, “washing dishes and peeling potatoes,” he says. Now, besides being a co-owner, he manages the restaurant and runs the beverage program.
“I like the guest interaction,” Chris says. “I like cooking and serving customers just like I would in my own home.”
Not long after opening, Shine’s youngest son Colin Shine, 36, joined the team and worked his way up to chef.
“I grew up in the industry,” Colin says. “My parents are good cooks; my grandparents are good cooks. I’ve worked in restaurants since I was 15 and I’m so happy finally running my own kitchen now.” He loves cooking on the line, but also loves to develop new, and tweak old, recipes. The delicious gumbo the restaurant serves, is his work. As for working with family, he says it can be difficult but it’s all good. “There’s a high turnover in this business,” he says, “but at the end of the day those two guys will always be there for me.”
Shine has expanded the original space to include three private dining rooms and a catering kitchen. The rooms, including The Cork Room — with its 940-bottle wine all — are perfect for holiday parties this season. But growing the special events side of the business isn’t the only thing in the Shines’ futures.
“I wanted to do this first,” Michael Shine says, “but I’m also planning more restaurants.”
Looks like the Shine boys have a bright future in food to look forward to.
Roasted Butternut Squash Bisque
Yield: [6-8 servings]
Colin Shine is known for his seasonal menus and this butternut squash bisque is perfect for the fall season.
Ingredients
● 3 Tbsp. butter, unsalted, melted
● 1 large (3-4lb) butternut squash, peeled, seeded, 1 inch dice
● 1 large shallot, roughly sliced
● 2 clove garlic, sliced
● 1 Tbsp. dark brown sugar
● ¼ tsp. cinnamon, ground
● ¼ tsp. nutmeg, ground
● 2 each clove, whole
● ⅛ tsp. cayenne pepper
● 2 tsp. coarse salt
● 1 tsp. black pepper, fresh cracked
● 1 tsp. fresh thyme, chopped
● 2 each fresh bay leaf
● 1 quart chicken stock or broth, low sodium
● 1 cup half & half
● 2 Tbsp. cotija cheese
● 2 Tbsp. pumpkin seed (pepitas), toasted
Directions
- Preheat oven to 400°F.
- In a large mixing bowl, toss together the butter, squash, shallot, garlic, brown sugar, spices and herbs. Roast in 400°F oven for 20-25 min., until caramelized and al dente.
- Remove squash from oven and allow to slightly cool.
- Transfer roasted mixture to Dutch oven or stock pot. Add chicken stock to cover. Simmer, covered, over medium heat for 20 min, to continue to allow the flavors to develop, and the squash to completely soften.
- Remove from heat. Stir in half & half. Discard bay leaves.
- Working in batches, puree in blender until smooth; transferring freshly pureed batch to new vessel. Do not over fill blender!
- Check seasoning. Re-season with salt and pepper if necessary.
- Ladle warm bisque into serving vessels. Garnish equally with cotija cheese and pepitas.
frankshouston.com