Houston couple embarks on one of first legitimate trips to Cuba in over 50 years
Surprisingly affordable and as good or better than the hype
by Philip Berquist, Honorary Consul of Croatia to Texas
My wife, Lisa Powell, surprised me with a “Bucket List” Christmas gift trip to Havana, Cuba, very early in the new era of travel now authorized directly from the United States. There was a bit of anxiety about the unknown, but I can report the visit to Cuba vastly exceeded our expectations. It was an exotic adventure, like going to Europe without the jet lag.
The people of Cuba were delightful and friendly, the food excellent, weather perfect (we went early February, probably Would not want to go in the summer!). Havana is a major city of vast contrasts, wonderful restaurants and cuisine, high-end hotels with many under development. There is abject poverty, horse and donkey-drawn carts (not the touristy carriage!), and pollution belching automobiles from the 1940’s and 1950’s. The trade winds seem to blow the pollution out of Havana, however. These same trade winds also seem to be blowing in the possibility of a better life for all Cubans.
There is a cautious optimism for the future for the people of this socialist island. They know that times are changing, and it was wonderful to sense this optimism firsthand. Here is what we can tell you about our wonderful experience. We can’t wait to go back.
Visas
There is an Internet service Destination Cuba (cubavisaservices.com) that will sell the visa for $50 per person and it can be put on a credit card. At the Southwest gate in Fort Lauderdale the company will bring a portable kiosk to the gate. If you did not purchase earlier on the Internet, they will sell you one on the spot.
Americans cannot be “tourists.” There are about a dozen categories that one can visit Cuba as an American. We used “Education” and the “People to People” program. You are required to keep a log of your interactions with Cuban citizens. The visa states, “TURISTA.” Part of the charm, I suppose.
Accommodations
Airbnb vs. Hotels
Hotels are very expensive, usually starting at $450 per night for the best ones. Once you find the airbnb that you like and the calendar indicates a vacancy for the period of time that you need, send an email that requests the dates. Our apartment, in Vedado, central Havana, was modest, with two bedrooms, across the street from Coppelia, a popular ice cream facility, atop of the street, La Rampa, the downhill boulevard leading to the Malecón and the ocean. For an additional $5 per person, Lili, our host, made us a delicious, full breakfast each morning.
Three blocks from our apartment was the Hotel Nacional Cuba, a cultural treasure. Therefore, we were able to stay local, at $78 per night, and relax when needed at an expensive four star hotel’s numerous patios and bars.
Currency
Credit cards are NOT used in Cuba. This is a cash-only “socialist paradise.” While we never at any time felt concern for robbery or any crime towards us, you still have to carry a lot of cash.
There are two currencies in Cuba, one for the locals (CUP) and one for the foreigners and visitors (CUC) (pronounced “KOOK”). The CUC is approximately 26 times the value of the CUP. You cannot use or possess CUP and it is illegal to spend US Dollars in Cuba. We exchanged at the Nacional Hotel 87.3 CUC to US$) and we were not residents. On Sundays, however, the Nacional would not exchange for us since we were NOT residents and since the banks were closed on Sundays.
Transportation
Taxis are the way to go in Havana. We were fortunate in that the father of Lili, “Papa,” was our personal driver for most of our visit. He drives a 1956 taxi, “Frankenstein,” so named due to the number of parts from other cars that it takes to keep it running.
There are several types of taxis in Havana. Before entering any cab, always mention your destination and ask for a price. Most of our cabs were 5 or 10 CUC.
There is a high end type, “The Official,” usually a modern yellow checkered, air-conditioned car. We engaged one at night and asked for the rate and he quoted 15 CUC. We briefly objected and he explained that he was “an official taxi.” Do not use, too expensive.
The second is what I will call “The Nelson.” We picked a yellow taxi, apparently not “official,” but still air-conditioned. He charged a reasonable 5 CUC. He gave us his card said if we had our hostess at the restaurant call him ten minutes before we were leaving, he would pick us up. Presto, there was Nelson for another wonderful 5 CUC ride back to our apartment.
The third tier taxi is what we would call the “Semi-Classic” – the old, usually 1940 and 1950’s US models. Again, ask for the price first.
The final is the “Classic.” These beautiful old sedans and convertibles are hired at the Nacional and on the Malecón in Old Havana. An hour ride and tour of Havana runs 30 – 40 CUC. Well worth it. Ours was a 1952 Pontiac Hydramatic convertible, original equipment including engine and transmission (automatic). This Pontiac was owned and driven by George. His grandfather was the original owner and driver.
We suggest walking to a major hotel and go to the taxi line when possible.
Food and Drink
“La Guarida” is a restaurant Lisa had seen on CNN and reviewed by Anthony Bourdain. It is located in an ancient building that looks like a bombed out WWII movie set. Walk up several long flights of stairs to the open air restaurant. As we expected, reservations were needed. We followed Bourdain’s advice and walked yet another flight to the bar. Open air and an incredible view with sea breezes and friendly people. We ate appetizers of fish tacos and lobster (you can only order appetizers at the bar) with plenty to drink. Total charge was 51 CUC!
We had lunch in Old Havana at Hotel Ambos Mundos (Both Worlds), a Hemingway haunt, where he lived for seven years. Great rooftop view and breeze. Perfect to smoke that first Cuban cigar.
At the top of the list is Cafe Laurent, a roof top restaurant in Vedado, about 2 blocks from the Nacional Hotel. Seafood risotto, lobster appetizer, 2 mojitos, wines and beers, 51 CUC. I cannot imagine returning to Havana and not going back!
Touristy
El Floridita, Hemingway’s Daiquiri joint, the home of the frozen daiquiri has a proper degree of decadence. Three blenders literally jumping at the commands of several bartenders, turning out 6 CUC frozen daiquiris with a life-sized bronze statue of Papa looking at you from his old seat at the bar.
The Nacional Hotel has class and one can only imagine the great lady in her heyday, with Hollywood celebrities and Mafiosa roaming the grounds. Also, a friendly exchange opportunity and fabulous humidor.
The Hemingway’s house, “Finca Vigía” (Lookout House), now a museum, is 15 miles east. Word is that his wife, at that time, was tired of living in hotels and the constant drinking at El Floridita and other saloons, and insisted on their buying a home. Do not miss! Have your taxi wait for you, hard to get a cab back.
Beach
We had made arrangements to meet the Ambassador of Belarus to Cuba at the old Havana Yacht Club. No yachts, but a beautiful beach. Round trip is 40 CUC. The views of the ocean are beautiful, but we finally realized that something was missing – pleasure craft such as sailboats. Nowhere to be seen. Remember that Florida is just 90 miles north.
Internet and Email
Put your devices on airplane mode immediately. There are Internet cards sold by the hour for 2.5 CUC. Not terribly reliable, however, spotty coverage, but you will be able to log on at least a couple of times a day.
Cigars and Rum
Prices for Cubans cigars are set by the government. We did not go to a factory. I bought mine at the Nacional Hotel humidor, downstairs. One my favorites, Romeo & Juliet, No. 2, in aluminum tubes, sell at the set price of 3.90 CUC, 97 CUC for a box of 25. No restrictions on personal consumption or purchases returning to the US. I bought one box, next time two! Most people on our return flight had rum. Apparently no restriction.
Conclusion
There are no Starbucks (yet). Credit cards cannot be used (yet).
Go now!