Molina’s Cantina at 82
If you live in Houston, you’ve almost certainly eaten at one of Molina’s Cantinas, there are currently three locations of the Tex-Mex stalwart that turns 82 years young this year.
It all began back in 1929 when Raul Molina left his hometown of Laredo, Mexico looking for a better life. He found it working as a busboy in Houston, a job that led him and wife Mary, in 1941, to buy that very same restaurant. It was called the Old Monterrey Restaurant and was located at 1919 West Gray, where a Walgreens now sits. Two sons, Raul Jr., and George, worked in the restaurant and the whole family lived upstairs in a one-room apartment.
They bought another restaurant and in 1952 they renamed it Molina’s Mexico City Restaurant and then Molina’s Restaurant and Cantina. Over the years several more sites were opened. Today the business is run by the three grandsons of Raul — Raul III, Ricardo, and Roberto.
“In the beginning, the restaurants were small and had several of the same menu items, all Tex-Mex,” says Ricardo Molina. “Over the years the menu has greatly expanded. We added grilled items like fajitas, seafood offerings, soups, and salads. Many of the signature items remain and are still made with the original recipes, including chili con carne and Enchiladas de Tejas.”
Customers can be rapid about their favorite dishes, such as The Ladies Special combo plate, puffy tacos, and José’s Dip.
The exact birth of the famous José’s Dip is a little murky, but the story goes that a waiter named José was once asked by a customer for a special dip, so he put dumped some spicy taco meat into the queso and voilà… José’s Dip!
But the biggest change involved tequila.
“Only beer and wine were served and there were no bars, but in 1971, liquor by the drink became law in Texas, and that changed the restaurant and the industry dramatically,” says Ricardo Molina. “Molina’s began serving their famous authentic (and potent) margaritas, which helped introduce people to tequila and changed the dining experience. This was really a game changer for all restaurants. Restaurants evolved into entertainment venues over the last several decades instead of just somewhere to eat.”
It’s hard to imagine eating Tex-Mex without a cold margarita, it’s even harder — particularly given this year’s heat wave — to imagine eating it without air conditioning.
“The original restaurant was one of the first to install air conditioning,” Ricardo Molina recalls. “Before A/C, sales would drop tremendously in the summer — I understand that was the case at all restaurants.”
Dining at Molina’s can be a family experience. Many diners are second and third generation Tex-Mex eaters, and almost all the regulars have their favorite waiter or waitress, many of whom have been working at Molina’s for decades. President George W.H. and Barbara Bush were longtime fans. One of the brothers visits each location every day.
“We are Tex-Mex and we’re proud to be Tex-Mex.” Ricardo Molina says. “There was a time that people were saying Tex-Mex isn’t Mexican food, and that’s fine, but we have the same base recipes that we’ve had forever. We do small batch; we grind our own chilies to make gravies and chili con carne and we try to be consistent on those signature items since we have third-generation guests who still dine with us decades later. We want it to taste the same as it did back then. It’s our area’s comfort food.”
Top Shelf Molina’s Margarita
Makes one tasty adult beverage. Celebrate Cinco de Mayo, or taco Tuesday, or any day with this authentic margarita Molina’s way. No mix needed.
INGREDIENTS:
2 oz Premium 100% agave tequila (such as Hornitos)
1 oz Premium orange liqueur (such as Grand Marnier)
1 oz fresh squeezed lime juice
Salt, to rim the glass (optional)
Lime wedges
DIRECTIONS:
Wet the rim of glass and dip in salt
Fill with ice
Pour remaining ingredients into a shaker over ice and give it a good, festive shake
Strain into salt rimmed glass
Garnish with a lime edge and enjoy!