15 to 50, and Beyond
Restaurants with Staying Power
Some favorite eateries never made it through COVID, struggling to switch to take-out only during the lock-down, and then facing supply line shortages and rising inflation. At the beginning of this year almost 20 eateries and coffee shops closed their doors including such popular ones as Harold’s in the Heights, Urban Eats, Alice Blue, and Sushi King. But as many close, and new ones spring up, there are some that seem to have real staying power.
Kata Robata Sushi + Grill
Kata Robata Sushi + Grill3600 Kirby Dr. Suite H
713.526.8858
katarobata.com
Chef Manabu “Hori” Horiuchi’s premiere Japanese spot just catty-cornered from the shuttered Sushi King, just celebrated its 15th anniversary, and is still going strong. The four-times James Beard nominated chef is known for his sushi creations mad from seafood flown in from Japan several times a week, as well as his creative takes on ramen, miso lobster mac n’ cheese, and grilled meats. More than just excellent food, Chef “Hori” Chef Hori has fostered a community of Japanese culture enthusiasts and provided a nurturing environment for his dedicated team members, many of whom have been with him since the beginning.
Pico’s
Pico’s3601 Kirby Dr.
832.831.9940
picos.net
Celebrating 35 years, Arnaldo Richard’s Pico’s has been consistent in serving up the flavors of the seven regions of Mexico along with some really big margaritas. The restaurant is also known for its moles and ceviches, as well as Pico’s famous Chile En Nogada, a roasted poblano pepper stuffed with pulled port in a peanut sauce with green olives, almonds and fruit covered in creamy walnut sauce topped with pomegranate seeds. The wonderful ambiance and service keep customers coming back as do the parking lot parties for Cinco de Mayo and Derby Day.
Backstreet
Backstreet1103 S. Shepherd Dr.
713.521.2239
backstreetcafe.net
H Town Restaurant Groups’ chef Hugo Ortega and wife Tracy Vaught have a half dozen popular eateries, but it all started with Backstreet Cafe more than 40 years ago. Nestled in a quaint 30’s-era home in River Oaks, Backstreet Cafe has fed generations of eaters craving quality Southern, Cajun, and Creole flavors. Think roasted oysters, fried green tomatoes, and their famous red corn chicken enchiladas. Come for the live jazz at Sunday brunch and enjoy one of the finest restaurant patios in town.
Ragin’ Cajun
Ragin’ Cajun4302 Richmond Ave.
713.623.6321
ragin-cajun.com
And over at mudbug central, the original Ragin’ Cajun turns the big five-o this year. While the po-boy sandwiches are still a big draw, when it’s crawfish season people flock here for the buckets of bugs boiled in a secret spiced liquid, something they’ve been doing since 1976. You can also get snow crab legs (two pounds worth) boiled in the same delicious brew along with corn and red potatoes.
Then there are some really senior eateries. The legendary Tony’s turns 60 next year, while Houston’s oldest Tex-Mex spot, Molina’s Cantina is an octogenarian. But the granddaddy of them all is Christie’s Seafood and Steaks at more than 106 years old. Or, as they say, since before you were born.
Jonathan Horowitz, president of the Houston Hospitality Alliance (formerly the Greater Houston Convention & Visitors Bureau) says currently the cost of doing business is putting pressure on the industry from both ends.
“First the food, staff, and rent costs are increasing,” he says, “and then customers are also feeling the pinch and are demanding more for their money.
“When I think about the restaurants that have stood the test of time I think about two things. One, is consistency. Customers know what they will get when they go there. Why do I keep going back to the same five restaurants? Because I know I’ll get great food and service. Every time. The second thing is you have to have a niche. Whether you’re the neighborhood hangout or the special occasion place, you need to find a specific role that needs filling and fill it. And then you have to be consistent about filling that niche. In Houston where there’s a new flashy restaurant opening every five minutes, you need to give your customers a reason to keep coming back.”
And going back to Kata Robata, Chef “Hori” agrees.
“There are many factors that contribute to our longevity, but the most important is our consistency, constant drive for perfection, incredible staff and listening to our guests. We never rest on our laurels and are as hungry today to make a great restaurant, as we were when we opened. We are always looking to evolve and stay relevant, we know no matter how much success we have had, the future is never guaranteed, and we approach each day and service as if it is the most important one yet. This type of dedication to one’s work and craft is very common in Japanese culture and a big part of my culinary and business philosophy. Work hard, always do your best, stay humble, always look to learn and get better, appreciate your staff and show thanks to your guests.”