Condiments and Change: State of Grace’s Bobby Matos Explains
Chef Bobby Matos, culinary director at the River Oaks State of Grace, leaves most of the cooking at home to his wife.
“She goes to the farmers market once a week,” he says. “We like simple, farm fresh stuff. We like to keep it light and bright, and healthy.”
One thing they are big on is condiments. Matos says she has different hot sauces for different dishes, and you will always find these five things in their refrigerator: butter, lemons, capers, sriracha, and ranch. Unfortunately, he’s had to replace all those items completely twice; one after the derecho and then after losing power again during Hurricane Beryl.
But don’t think he never cooks at home. Weekends you just might find him firing up the Big Green Egg — a top-of-the-line kamado-style ceramic charcoal barbecue grill and smoker — and throwing some steaks on. Prime, of course, he’s a bit of a steak snob.
“My wife says I could do it as well in the kitchen, but it’s more like how we do it in a restaurant on the Egg.”
But he’ll get plenty of great steak pretty soon as State of Grace is undergoing some big changes. The River Oaks restaurant will be closed at the beginning of September and reopen on the 9th with a new menu and décor.
“It’s been nine years,” says Matos. “It was time for a refresh. To put a little makeup on her.”
The modern country style, complete with antler accents, will be replaced with rich tones of green and grayish hues complemented by touches of brass, chandeliers and candles throughout, and limewashed brick above vintage leather banquettes. The walls will feature quirky art, whimsical florals, and ornate antiques instead of game skulls.
The inspiration is the golden age of dining, and the menu will reflect that as well.
“More and more, I have found that classic is what’s current,” says native Houstonian and chef/owner Ford Fry. “There is a genuine enjoyment to the menus, and service style, of yesteryear, both within the industry, and among guests. So why not celebrate that? In reimagining State of Grace, we’re channeling simplicity and service. When I think of my childhood and Texas, I think continental cuisine, wood-cooking and gulf seafood, and we hope to emulate that experience for both our everyday neighbors and first-time visitors alike. Warm, welcoming hospitality and a dependable favorite that keeps you guessing how it’s so good.”
Ford, VP of culinary Drew Belline, culinary director Matos, and executive chef John Quinn, have all worked to create a place where the servers know your drink and your steak temperature. And there will be steak. Lots of steak. Wood-fired steaks like the 42 oz. Bistecca alla Fiorentina and Le Entracôte with frites and sauce verde. There’s also a chopped steak that Matos compares to a cheeseburger without a bun. They will still feature seafood, and the Oster Room will stay, but there will be some changes to the seafood tower and don’t look for the Asian and Tex-Mex menu influences. And don’t look for the hushpuppies of blue crab and cane sugar syrup dusted with powdered sugar either, although there will be something called a blue crab beignet which sounds pretty similar. Other starters include a classic Caesar Salad, French onion soup, oysters, and deviled eggs.
State of Grace will feature more than 400 bottles of wine, classic cocktails, and local and imported beers. Hours remain the same and there will be a weekend brunch, but it doesn’t sound like the old El Felix enchiladas will fit the new vibe.
But change is good sometimes and the winds of time — nine years in this case — sometimes need to blow in a new direction. We just hope not as strongly as a derecho.
State of Grace Reopens Sept. 9
stateofgracetx.com
3258 Westheimer Rd.
832.942.5080