Heights Food Revival
New places to dine
Houston Heights, known to locals as simply The Heights, dates back to the 1890’s and sits just northwest of downtown. Long known as an eclectic and quaint neighborhood, the area has been changing in the last few years, not always to the delight of longtime residents. Charming cottages and old Victorians have been torn down and replaced by townhomes and macmansions, but one of the benefits to well-heeled millennials flocking to the area has been an influx of hot new eateries.
There have long been some popular spots to dine in the area, mostly Tex-Mex and casual joints, but in 2006 a wave of dining hit The Heights, starting with Glass Wall, and it became the “new restaurant row.” And now there’s been a resurgence, once again making the neighborhood one of the hot dining locations in Houston. Here are some of the newest ones to try.
The Flying Fish
Opened in late December of last year, The Flying Fish is a Dallas-based chain that harkens to longtime fishing camp eateries serving up platters of catfish, oysters, shrimp, crab and gumbo. Most come from the Gulf of Mexico, although the catfish is farm raised, but the food is good, the service fast and the atmosphere funky. There is a Liars Wall were patrons can post photos of their own catch (and lie about the size) and a Billy Bass Wall. You remember the Big Mouth Billy Bass singing fish from the late ‘90s? If you have one of those silly decorations, you can donate to the wall at The Flying Fish and get a free basket of fried catfish. Not a bad deal.
1815 N. Durham Dr.
Houston, TX 77008
713.377.9919
flyingfishinthe.net
Dish Society
This locally owned small chain focuses on farm-to-table fare, sourcing ingredients from area farms and ranches. It serves up breakfast, weekend brunch, lunch and dinner, and the new Heights location, opened this past January, sports a larger bar area with a bigger selection of craft beer, cocktails and wine. The inside seats 85 and there’s a large patio for good-weather dining. Come early, and hungry, for typical Texas fare like biscuits and fried chicken, breakfast tacos and yummy Nutella French toast topped with seasonal berries. The lunch and supper menu offers up a delicious deconstructed chicken pot pie with fresh carrots, potatoes and peas, as well as varied soups and salads and a very filling brisket, stuffed baked sweet potato. Looking for lighter fare? Try the citrus glazed salmon or the shrimp tacos.
1050 Yale St.
Houston, TX 77008
713.861.3474
dishsociety.com
Elliot’s Table
The Elliot at Elliot’s Table is Elliot Roddy whose restaurant opened in The Heights in December of last year to serve simple Southern fare with a family flare. Bring your family or friends and grab a table in this cozy spot with a cute patio for al fresco dining. Expect to share big plates, family style. There are two delicious steaks from local 44 Farms and a platter of Gulf shrimp and grits as entrées, but there are plenty of sides and starters and even a burger on the menu. Don’t pass up the deviled eggs topped with spicy chorizo and hot sauce, or the lamb tacos. Desserts are from Jody Cakes and Fat Cat Creamery with bread provided by Cake & Bacon company. Nothing fancy here, just good, real food and a sense of community.
465 T. C. Jester
Houston, TX 77007
713.485.0340
elliotstable.com
Truth BBQ
Pitmaster Leonard Botello IV temporarily closed his Brenham barbeque spot last December to open a new location in Houston Heights. Brisket fans were salivating over the January opening here, anxious to taste the smoked meats and his popular tater tot casserole and corn pudding. Like any barbeque joint on a Texas top ten list, expect to wait in line and don’t go too late or the barbeque will run out! The restaurant is a charming rustic design with a cafeteria-style line along one wall. Grab a tray and move down the line inhaling the scent of smoked meats like turkey, pork ribs, pulled pork, sausages, and that melt-in-your-mouth brisket. As good as it all is, try to save room for a slice of a big homemade cake.
110 Heights Blvd. p.832.835.0001 truthbbq.com
Mastrantos
For husband and wife Xavier and Mari Godoy, Mastrantos is their fourth child. The restaurant is a labor of love and their love of food. The menu is globally inspired, some ingredients are locally sourced while pasta flour, coffee, and tomatoes are imported from Italy. And the kitchen is open, as in no walls at all. Patrons are right there watching the cooks prepare their food. Even the dough lab is transparent, although the fresh breads and pasta are made behind glass. The neighborhood has taken to this spot because it offers excellent coffee and pastries for breakfast and then becomes a full-service dinner restaurant complete with beer and wine. Attire is casual but the food is anything but that.
927 Studewood St. p.346.227.845 mastrantos.com
And coming soon …
Squable
Look for this new concept from Bobby Huegel of Anvil Bar & Refuge fame and James Bear Award-winning chef Justin Yu sometime this spring in the old Southern Goods spot on W. 19th Street. This is the duo’s second collaboration in The Heights, the first being Better Luck Tomorrow bar and eatery. Expect European fare with American influences, shellfish and raw oysters and of course, craft cocktails. Check out the website for more details on the opening.
632 W. 19th St squabletime.com